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THIS WEEK

  • Air Sealing 101: The Step Homeowners Skip (And Why It Costs Them)

  • Resilience industry updates

  • Seasonal checklist

  • Resilience first dreamhouse

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

Air sealing is the process of closing gaps, cracks, and penetrations in a home's envelope to stop conditioned air from escaping — a different job from insulation, which only slows heat transfer.

Air First, Insulation Second

Heating and cooling eat 40–50% of a typical home's energy bill. Most homeowners respond to that fact by buying insulation. Reasonable instinct, wrong order of operations. It's the kind of mistake that's invisible until you check the receipts against the thermostat.

Insulation slows heat transfer. It does nothing about air moving through gaps, cracks, and penetrations. A beautifully insulated attic sitting on top of a leaky ceiling is like a wool sweater with the zipper open: technically warm, practically useless. Air sealing first, insulation second, isn't a nice-to-have sequence. It's the sequence, full stop.

The order of operations

  1. Seal the big holes. Attic hatch, top plates, plumbing and electrical penetrations, recessed lights (swap in IC-rated airtight covers if you haven't), chases, rim joists.

  2. Then insulate. Bring the attic up to a climate-appropriate R-value.

  3. Then verify. More on that below.

Notice what's not in that list: buying insulation first and hoping. This is the same logic behind almost every upgrade in this newsletter: the sequence determines the payoff more than any single product does.

The numbers (treat as a starting point, not gospel; code updates by year and zone)

Assembly

Target

Attic

R-49 most of the country, R-60 in cold zones (~IECC zones 4–8)

Walls

R-13–R-21 cavity, plus continuous exterior insulation in newer cold-zone codes

Rim joist

Air seal + R-15 or better

Floors over unconditioned space

R-19–R-30

Material cheat sheet

  • Blown cellulose/fiberglass: cheapest attic upgrade; cellulose's density gives a modest air-slowing bonus.

  • Mineral wool: fire-resistant, water-shedding, quiets the house too. Worth the upgrade if fire resilience is already on your radar (see: our Fire pillar).

  • Closed-cell spray foam: highest R-value per inch, doubles as an air and vapor barrier. Best for rim joists and awkward assemblies. Priciest.

  • Rigid foam (polyiso, EPS, XPS): continuous exterior layers, basement walls.

Trust, but verify

A blower-door test quantifies how leaky your house actually is (measured in ACH50); paired with infrared imaging, it'll show you exactly where the bypasses are. Many utilities subsidize the audit. Get one before the work and after: "before and after" is the only honest way to know the sealing actually worked, and it's a reasonable thing to ask any contractor to show you.

The moisture trap

Air sealing changes how moisture moves through your house. That's a feature, but only if you plan for it. Tight homes need deliberate ventilation (bath/kitchen exhaust fans at minimum, an ERV/HRV if you've sealed aggressively). And never insulate over an active roof leak or a damp basement wall. You'll trap the moisture problem behind a warm blanket, not solve it. (This is exactly the kind of shortcut that turns an energy project into a mold project. More on that intersection in a future issue.)

The money

The federal 25C credit that used to cover 30% of insulation and air-sealing material costs no longer applies. It was eliminated for expenses incurred after December 31, 2025. Before you budget this project, check your state energy office and your utility directly; many still layer rebates on top of what's left of federal programs, and those vary a lot by state.

Feel a cold draft near an outlet or light switch on an exterior wall? That's not an insulation gap. That's an air-sealing bypass. No amount of blown-in fiberglass fixes it; a $2 foam gasket behind the cover plate does.

TOP NEWS THIS WEEK

Resilience Industry Updates

  • DOE updated its $8.8 billion Home Energy Rebate Program guidance, reinstating upgrade funding and requiring prior weatherization for HVAC rebates.

  • Industry groups said the revised DOE guidance restores a more fuel-neutral approach and allows homeowners to keep backup heating systems with heat pumps.

  • USGBC highlighted DOE’s updated IRA home energy rebate guidance, including sizable multifamily rebate pathways.

  • Congress’s major housing overhaul became law without the president’s signature, affecting housing and renovation conditions.

  • California created a $100 million Disaster Rebuilding Fund inside a broader housing financing overhaul.

  • U.S. single-family housing starts and permits fell in June, while home prices remained elevated.

  • Extreme heat drove at least 30 deaths in the U.S., underscoring the need for passive cooling and resilience upgrades.

A HUGE arguments against air-sealing is the need for ventilation. That is absolutely important to take into consideration. ANOTHER large issue is detailing these during renovation/new construction. Someone has to physically carry this out and to do that they need to be trained to properly carry is out. The technology and knowledge is there. We have incredible ERVs and air supply/return that automatically can manage indoor air quality and CO2 levels.

OUR TAKE

There are stories of people moving into the Passivhaus directly after a fire. They closes the windows and doors, left, and when they came back after the smoke had cleared they had little to no smoke damage. If we lived in the countryside with access to lots of fresh air, I might say air-sealing is not necessary, and to skip it, building must breath. The issue is all the other details and the carry-out construct-ability of more traditional breathable membranes. This debate will continue with some interesting examples to come in the future, but for now I’m presenting you this information to carry out your own decision.

KEY TERMS

  • R-value — A material's resistance to heat flow. Higher number, better insulator. It's per-inch for some materials (spray foam) and cumulative for others (batts stacked to reach a target).

  • Air sealing — Closing the gaps and cracks that let conditioned air escape and outside air in. Different job than insulating; insulation slows heat transfer, air sealing stops airflow.

  • Building envelope — The physical boundary separating inside from outside: walls, roof, foundation, windows. Everything in this issue is envelope work.

  • Blower-door test — A calibrated fan installed in an exterior doorway that depressurizes the house to measure how leaky it is. Standard diagnostic before and after air-sealing work.

  • ACH50 — Air changes per hour at 50 pascals of pressure. The number a blower-door test actually spits out; lower means tighter.

  • Rim joist — The band of framing at the edge of each floor, sitting on top of the foundation wall. Notoriously leaky and under-insulated in older homes.

  • IC-rated (recessed lighting) — "Insulation Contact" rated. Means the fixture is safe to bury in insulation without a fire risk; standard recessed cans often aren't.

  • ERV/HRV — Energy or heat recovery ventilator. A mechanical ventilation system that brings in fresh air without losing all the conditioned air you just paid to heat or cool; typically needed once a house is sealed tight.

  • IECC climate zone — The federal code map (zones 1–8) that sets your area's minimum insulation and building requirements. Determines which R-value targets actually apply to you.

Seasonal Rhythms

Opening the windows/doors in the Summer is so nice. I would never say not to. Depending on where you are (hopefully there is a screen), regardless some amount of dew is present in the air, especially in the early mornings. This actually brings in dust + mites, besides of course some moisture. Priority in the morning when its getting warm, please if the AC is running close all windows and doors, this will save energy (and $$) but also help dry things out. It’s a idea for health to wash sheets even more regularly in the hot months, pillowcases, upholstery needs a vacuum, and get a solid dusting in. Mites and the like can effect us in various ways but its another onslaught to the system, and we’re trying to build resilient homes here that help us to have more resilient bodies.

Resilience First Dreamhouse

Ground House 107R by David Fewson

Ground House 107R by David Fewson

Ground House 107R by David Fewson

Sources: DOE Energy Saver insulation guidance; ENERGY STAR "Rule Your Attic"; IECC climate zone tables; Building Science Corporation on assemblies and moisture.

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